Hua Hin Quality Listing
Royalty and commoners enjoy the seaside ambience of Hua Hin, on the Gulf of Thailand not far south of Bangkok. Tackiness and pollution have taken their toll... but the now-notorious Pattaya was just a deserted strip of sand way back when the royal family and the elite of 1920s Bangkok discovered Hua Hin. Thailand's original resort, the Hua Hin Railway Hotel, welcomed carriage loads of guests arriving on the new railway which ran south to British Malaya. Royals and commoners alike continue to make the journey from the capital, joined by a swelling contingent of falang who appreciate the difference from better-known resort towns. Hua Hin lies 232 kilometres (139 miles) south of Bangkok in Prachuab Khiri Khan Province - less than four hours by road or rail from the Big Mango. At first pass Hua Hin seems a microcosm of modern Thailand: another fair-sized, dusty Thai town boasting several ugly wedding-cake waterfront towers and a scattering of tourist bars. Three-wheeled samlors and tuk-tuks whine past dilapidated teakwood shophouses, clusters of dried-squid stalls on street corners and the many tacky, bathroom-tiled 'Asian moderne' concrete boxes. Let's make for the beach... The beaches, periodically scoured of touts and litter, are equipped with lounge chairs and umbrellas, and vendors bearing steamed crabs, mussels and beer. Pony rides are on hand, for the children. Before breakfast you can watch the orange and blue striped fishing trawlers nose into the main pier, then disgorge their catch in buckets full. Golfers enjoy a wide choice of diversions here. In 1932 Rama VII was playing golf at the Royal Hua Hin, Thailand's oldest 18-hole layout, when he received the news of the country's first military coup. Springfield, a Jack Nicklaus design, Majestic Creek, Lake View, Palm Hills, and Milford, join many others on the way in from Bangkok. Away from the waterfront, Hua Hin's timber-panelled railway station, with its charming, filigreed royal retiring room standing alone on the platform, looks a treat in the golden light of late afternoon. Time to head back to the waterfront, where the seafood served in the open-air restaurants next to Tha Thiap Reua Pramong, the big fishing pier, has to be as good as any. Cotton fish, perch, mussels, crab and the ubiquitous squid can be recommended. After dark, the action moves to the bustling night market flogging bootleg watches, cassette tapes and designer tee-shirts. Many night-market vendors also set out mouth-watering treats to sizzle on their charcoal grills. Right on the beachfront in the heart of town, the 1923-vintage Hotel Sofitel Central - formerly the Railway, and which some may recognise as the Hotel Le Phnom in The Killing Fields - commands fifteen hectares of landscaped greenery, including a topiary garden of intricate animal shaped bushes, a giant chess set, an orchid and butterfly farm, two putting greens and a croquet lawn. Renovations in 1986 took the hotel back to its Edwardian past, richly decorated with cut-glass chandeliers, antique teakwood verandahs and cool marble floors. Chiva-Som, a luxurious spa resort, also helps place Hua Hin on the international tourism map. At this 'Haven of Life' the staff blend eastern and western health philosophies with planned nutrition (wine only at dinner-time!), aerobics, massage and hydrotherapy. My sybaritic spies, posing as ladies of leisure, found it all a little bit over the top; if you question the cost, you can't afford it. Ratchaniwet Marukkha Thayawan, the Palace of Love and Hope, was built on the coast between Cha-am and Hua Hin for King Vajiravudh, Rama VI, who reigned 1910-1925). The monarch hoped to father an heir in this breezy pleasure pavilion where sea breezes waft through fretworked golden teak, but he seems to have made little use of his love nest. It is enclosed within a military reservation but open to the public. In 1928 his successor Rama VII built Klai Kangwon, another Hua Hin palace which is still in use. The small town of Cha-am, 25 kilometres down the road, is blessed with a long casuarina-fringed beach and an even quieter atmosphere. Resorts are springing up between the two towns and the most spectacular of these is the Dusit Resort & Polo Club. Faced with competing against the cachet of the Sofitel Central Hua Hin, the designers of this property created something quite distinctive. When the lights come on at dusk the cascading pools tumbling down towards the beach are spectacular. The Thai Royal Family dines here on occasion - need one say more? On the way back to Bangkok is the city of Petchburi, where the steep limestone pinnacle of Phra Nakhon Khiri, the Holy City Hill, commands the hot, steamy lowlands. King Mongkut, Rama IV, built himself a retreat up here in the mid-19th century, creating a beguiling mix of Thai stupas, Chinese screens and the framed prints of Napoleonic battles which encapsulates his Kingdom's historic relationships with the outside world. Alone among their less adept neighbours, the astute kings of 19th-century Siam (as it then was) kept one step ahead of the great colonizing powers, adopting western technology and ideas whilst maintaining their country's cultural integrity. A cable car provides an easy ascent out of reach of the marauding monkeys for which cameras, necklaces and snacks are easy targets - the staff carry slingshots to keep these shameless thieves in check! Thai Song Dam people, an ethnic minority whose forbears emigrated from the Dien Bien Phu region of northern Vietnam two centuries ago, have settled in a village outside Petchburi. The village's 3000 people still preserve their telltale preference for sticky rice and their skills in dyeing homespun cotton with natural indigo (although one learns that chemical dyes must often substitute for the time-consuming business of collecting and treating the bark of the indigo tree). Also in the Petchburi district is Kaeng Krachan National Park, Thailand's largest forest reserve yet one of the least visited. There are virtually no amenities but abundant vistas, thick rainforest, long distance hiking trails and rivers suitable for rafting. Residents include, reportedly, the rare Sumatran rhinoceros among less endangered species like elephants, serow, the giant hornbill and gibbon. The Palace of Love and Hope, _____________________________________________________________________________ Pack your bags and head for the Land of Smiles. Hua Hin on the Gulf of Siam is a resort fit for a king… Hua Hin and Phuket are two of Thailand's best known resorts: Hua Hin for being the king's chosen holiday hideaway and Phuket for its reputation as the Pearl of the Andaman sea. Hua Hin is a quieter, more genuine experience. Visiting both destinations means another journey onwards from Bangkok but don't let that put you off; once you've come this far what are a few extra hours? A good hotel will arrange your airport transfers and there's little as pleasurable as stepping off a long haul flight to be greeted by a friendly face who takes complete charge of your bags, leaving you to glide through customs without a care in the world. As you slam into the stifling heat outside, thank your lucky stars that your lovely driver has thought of everything and is on hand with cold wet cloths and chilled water. That's what I call travelling in style. Hua Hin sits on the Gulf of Siam and has gained a reputation as 'THE' beach resort for wealthy Thais. King Rama VII built a summer palace here in 1928 as a gift for Queen Rambaibarni. He named it "Klai Klangwol" which means "Far from worries". The present king now spends most of his time here and, rumour has it, the small charming coastal resort may well become Thailand's next capital. By attracting the creme de la creme of Thailand society the resort offers visitors a uniquely authentic experience. The king's presence, which is strongly felt, has had the effect of keeping sex tourism to a minimum. A host of luxury resorts and spas have sprung up along the coastline, including the world famous ChivaSom spa, which regularly welcomes celebrities such as Liz Hurley. Thailand is renowned for its alternative health therapies and fantastic massage techniques. Make time for some pampering at a spa, indulging in total body wraps, a full Thai body massage or a facial. The abundance of exotic flowers such as orchids and jasmine makes for a sweet smelling, sensual experience. The atmosphere is utterly serene while the ever cheerful and attentive staff help you relax and unwind. Top end spas do day passes so if you want to sample some of ChivaSom's luxurious pampering you can, but you need to book in well ahead of time - no dropping in unannounced! Other resort spas are available for a spontaneous treatment or a day's package. For shopaholics, trawling the night markets for cheap designer fakes, Batik and local arts and crafts is a real treat. Remember bargaining the prices down is part of the fun. Tailors will make made-to-measure clothes at bargain prices. Here too it is possible to haggle. A good price for men's shirts is ?7 each, while dresses can be purchased for about ?20. To get a real taste of the place, sample the local cuisine on the stalls or in one of the many seafood restaurants along the pier. Food and drink is very cheap and a good meal for two won't set you back more than about ?7. If sport is your thing, Hua Hin is famous for its six championship golf courses, including the 70-year old Royal golf course. September visitors should see the King's Cup Elephant Polo Tournament hosted by the Anantara Resort with the Thai Elephant Conservation Centre. Elephant Polo was started by Mogul Indian Kings and reinvented in 1982. The story says an Englishman and a Scotsman in a Swiss bar came up with the plan. No, really; it may sound like a classic joke but these two polo fans' crazy idea became reality with the tournament played in Sri Lanka and Nepal. The Evason resorts are beautifully laid-out and thoughtfully organised. The staff, in Hua Hin especially, were among the sweetest and most friendly I have ever met, happy to go an extra mile for your comfort. They actually try to pre-empt your wishes, and small touches such as being offered ice creams and fruit by the pool and the choice of both vegemite and marmite make all the difference! The views, the beach and the stunning swimming pools in both locations are the stuff of dream holiday brochures. So much so that I had to pinch myself for a reality check on a regular basis. The high point of Hua Hin was heading for the beach restaurant after our 24-hour trip. Calm, quiet and right on the seafront, we were totally alone. The sun, the sea, ice cool beer and the unfamiliar yet delectable smells of freshly grilled squid were the best welcome one could ask for. If you're looking for privacy, the Pool Villas are an absolute treat. In both Hua Hin and Phuket they guarantee you space and seclusion. [ Far from Worries in Hua Hin, Thailand
|
Digital Metrix